Flapper Jane. By Bruce Bliven. The New Republic, May 8, 2013. Originally published September 9, 1925. Also find it here and here.
Bliven:
Jane’s a flapper. That is a quaint, old-fashioned term, but
I hope you remember its meaning. As you can tell by her appellation, Jane is
19. If she
were 29, she would be Dorothy; 39, Doris; 49, Elaine; 59, Jane again — and so
on around. This Jane, being 19, is a flapper, though she urgently denies that
she is a member of the younger generation. The younger generation, she will
tell you, is aged 15 to 17; and she professes to be decidedly shocked at the
things they do and say. This is a fact which would interest her minister, if he
knew it – poor man, he knows so little! For he regards Jane as a perfectly
horrible example of youth – paint, cigarettes, cocktails, petting parties–oooh!
Yet if the younger generation shocks her as she says, query: how wild is Jane?
Before
we come to this exciting question, let us take a look at the young person as
she strolls across the lawn of her parents’ suburban home, having just put the
car away after driving sixty miles in two hours. She is, for one thing, a very
pretty girl. Beauty is the fashion in 1925. She is frankly, heavily made up,
not to imitate nature, but for an altogether artificial effect—pallor mortis,
poisonously scarlet lips, richly ringed eyes—the latter looking not so much
debauched (which is the intention) as diabetic. Her walk duplicates the swagger supposed by innocent America to go
with the female half of a Paris Apache dance. And there are, finally, her
clothes.
These
were estimated the other day by some statistician to weigh two pounds. Probably
a libel; I doubt they come within half a pound of such bulk. Jane isn’t wearing
much, this summer. If you’d like to know exactly, it is: one dress, one
step-in, two stockings, two shoes.
. . . .
“Jane,”
say I, “I am a reporter representing American inquisitiveness. Why do all of
you dress the way you do?”
“I
don’t know,” says Jane. This reply means nothing: it is just the device by
which the younger generation gains time to think. Almost at once she adds: “The
old girls are doing it because youth is. Everybody wants to be young,
now—though they want all us young people to be something else. Funny, isn’t it?”
“In a
way,” says Jane, “it’s just honesty. Women have come down off the pedestal lately.
They are tired of this mysterious feminine-charm stuff. Maybe it goes with
independence, earning your own living and voting and all that. There was always
a bit of the harem in that cover-up-your-arms-and-legs business, don’t you
think?”
“Women still
want to be loved,” goes on Jane, warming to her theme, “but they want it on a
50-50 basis, which includes being admired for the qualities they really
possess. Dragging in this strange-allurement stuff doesn’t seem sporting. It’s
like cheating in games, or lying.”
“Ask
me, did the War start all this?” says Jane helpfully. “The answer is, how do I
know? How does anybody know?”
“I read
this book whaddaya-call-it by Rose Macaulay, and she showed where they’d been
excited about wild youth for three generations anyhow—since 1870. I have a
hunch maybe they’ve always been excited.”
“Somebody
wrote in a magazine how the War had upset the balance of the sexes in Europe
and the girls over there were wearing the new styles as part of the competition
for husbands. Sounds like the bunk to me. If you wanted to nail a man for life
I think you’d do better to go in for the old-fashioned line: ‘March me to the
altar, esteemed sir, before you learn whether I have limbs or not.’ Of course,
not so many girls are looking for a life meal-ticket nowadays. Lots of them
prefer to earn their own living and omit the home-and-baby act. Well, anyhow,
postpone it years and years. They think a bachelor girl can and should do
everything a bachelor man does.”
“It’s
funny,” says Jane, “that just when women’s clothes are getting scanty, men’s
should be going the other way. Look at the Oxford trousers —as though a man had
been caught by the ankles in a flannel quicksand.”
Do the
morals go with the clothes? Or the clothes with the morals? Or are they
independent? These are questions I have not ventured to put to Jane, knowing
that her answer would be “so’s your old man.” Generally speaking, however, it
is safe to say that as regards the wildness of youth there is a good deal more
smoke than fire. Anyhow, the new Era of Undressing, as already suggested, has
spread far beyond the boundaries of Jane’s group. The fashion is followed by
hordes of unquestionably monogamous matrons, including many who join heartily in
the general ululations as to what young people are coming to. Attempts to link
the new freedom with prohibition, with the automobile, the decline of
Fundamentalism, are certainly without foundation. These may be accessory, and
indeed almost certainly are, but only after the fact.
That
fact is, as Jane says, that women to-day are shaking off the shreds and patches
of their age-old servitude. “Feminism” has won a victory so nearly complete
that we have even forgotten the fierce challenge which once inhered in the very
word. Women have highly resolved that they are just as good as men, and intend
to be treated so. They don’t mean to have any more unwanted children. They
don’t intend to be debarred from any profession or occupation which they choose
to enter. They clearly mean (even though not all of them yet realize it) that
in the great game of sexual selection they shall no longer be forced to play
the role, simulated or real, of helpless quarry. If they want to wear their
heads shaven, as a symbol of defiance against the former fate which for three
millennia forced them to dress their heavy locks according to male decrees,
they will have their way. If they should elect to go naked nothing is more
certain than that naked they will go, while from the sidelines to which he has
been relegated mere man is vouchsafed permission only to pipe a feeble Hurrah!
Hurrah!
Flapper Jane: Your Gateway to the Roaring Twenties website.
How the Flapper Represented an Initial Movement Toward Postmodernism. By Claire Jones.